In "How Sushi WenGlobal," Why Does Bestor Refer to Bluefin

In "How Sushi WenGlobal," why does Bestor refer to bluefin tuna as "stateless fish?"

A) Bluefin tuna swim so fast and migrate so far, they may not remain in any nation's waters for long.
B) ICCAT (the International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas) , made up of 28 countries, has declared that the fish should receive "stateless" legal status.
C) No one country has been willing to take responsibility for conserving bluefin tuna.
D) Bluefin tuna form part of sushi in every country of the world.