Waves break because:
A) height decreases while length increases
B) height increases while length decreases
C) both height and length increase
D) both height and length decrease
E) water particle orbits change from circular to oval

Question

Quizplus · Accepted Answer

Waves break when the height of the wave increases while the length decreases. As the wave moves into shallower water, the bottom of the wave will begin to interact with the ocean floor. This friction causes the wave to slow down, causing the wavelength to shorten while the height increases. When the steepness of the wave becomes too great, it will eventually break.

Waves Break Because